> News

S710 BLACK BOOK (20/10/2006)

By:
Eoghain O'Briain



As the name implies, the following information is only additional tips and tricks for modifying or setting up your S710. Some tips/tricks are cited from the Net by its respective posters or creators.

S710 has been considered as the most tremendous effort from Serpent Motorsport to bring up 200mm 1/10 scale racing with innovation that proves only Serpent can pulled out, once again, after the most successful Impulse `The Legend` which was the benchmark for all 200mm Nitro cars. The extra fully adjustable suspension geometry and extremely low drive train friction resulted from new drive ratios have place S710 on a class of its own. Performance Through Evolution!


Rev6 (27/AUG/05), Diff Carriers and Additional Low Chassis holes

Until this time we able to get picture on the left when building a new car. Put glass tape or such which is thick enough to hold diff securely (front and rear) because there will be slight amount of plays (up and down) without it. Pictured showing rear end using two layered of Tamiya glass tape #TA-53170. Do the same to the front diff.
   
Low chassis on the left has been milled for additional holes. 1 in front for better or easier view in adjusting stabilizer bars, 3 slots on engine mounting area for extra cooling and 2 slots under 2 speed shaft for easier cleaning.


Suspension

Serpent shock shaft considered using the hardest material available. It will not bent on impact, but unfortunately, it will just broke which make the car difficult to drive. The countermeasure simply lies on the need of more movement on its shock pivot point top with its ball.

On S710, the original front shocks are mounted at an angle (viewing from side of the car) which makes the movement kind of limited. DO NOT move its shock tower further in front (like the one on S705) and mounting the shock behind to make more movement; or simply just to have the shock sit straight when you look at them from the side. Also, the upper half of bearing block holder has been design to hold front shock tower firm and tight. Adding spacers to mount the front tower further front would also means weakening the tower `sitting` surface area.

The solution to make more movement in between the plastic pivot top with its ball and still maintaining the strength needed is very simple. Just cut/flatten up to 1mm thinner in the face that has bigger hole for the ball to go in (the one with ejector pin mark).

You could use up to 1mm spacer (depending on tires brand) installed on lower shock mount (on the lower arms) just to make the shock sits at less of an angle without rubbed by inner wheel at full steering throw. Additionally, you can also use aftermarket 3Racing product #SE710-007 (2nd picture from right) and cut/flatten the surface further (2.5mm max) to make them sit at the straightest angle available until now (refer to pictures above). SE710-004 (upper bumper plate) also a nice addition from 3racing but preferred to be cut as pictured on the right or it will crack on hard impact (and will hit your bearing block as well).